Mexican pipe

Super fun session.

Early Morning Perfection



We have been in Puerto Escondido a week today, alot has happened since we arrived here but I dont need to go into that! I nearly drowned a few days ago, I went for a late afternoon session while it was still quiet and took the beating of my life.
It began when I had a wave and began paddling out the back again when a set loomed on the horizon. Sometimes the sets catch you out and you cant see them coming! Anyway I just made it under the first wave then I duck dived the second and got smashed all over the place. Board ripped out of my grasp. I came to the surface out of breath then I bailed on the 3rd wave which meant my board then dragged me under. Also to make matters worse, at the moment there is a big gully on the inside that is quite deep so in the circumstances I couldnt push off the bottom to break the surface quick enough! I made it to the surface just in time to get a miniscule breath of air before the 4th broke on my head. I tried to relax but it was hard getting to the surface again. I came to the surface after the 4th and had to go straight under for the 5th which by this point I was fucked! I then managed to hold onto my board whilst the set had passed. From this point onwards I needed a break and was on the sidelines for at least 10 minutes.
Eventually after all the heroics I managed to stay out of real harm the rest of the session.
Its by far the heaviest beachbreak I have surfed, its also the best and most rewarding wave I have probably ever surf!
But as most know the sea usually wins the battle.....
Other than that its been one of the most enjoyable stops on our travels!