Friday, 25 March 2011

LARGE

The swell has been pretty large over the last couple of days here in Puerto Escondido. Wednesday there were some 10ft waves coming through on the beach and yesterday the swell had dropped a little and it was more like 6-8ft. I have only got a 6,4 with me. I needed something in the 7ft range to get me into some of those waves. Or even better getting towed into them would have been the go as you wouldnt need to worry about paddling through the most hideous impact zone!

I have been getting in at La Punta which is right down the southern end of Zicatela beach. Its a fun lefthand pointbreak that breaks over sand, real close to the rocks.
Been getting some 200-300meter waves down there with the odd barrel section. Cant complain! I didnt capture any photos of the wave at La Punta or me surfing it as I have been going down there by myself whilst Janine catches some rays in the hotel pool!

However I didnt want to disappoint you so, I took some shots the other day when it was large.....Enjoy!
Wednesday afternoon.

Wednesday afternoon

Wednesday afternoon

Thursday evening Glass

Tuesday, 22 March 2011

Mexican pipe


Super fun session.


Early Morning Perfection



We have been in Puerto Escondido a week today, alot has happened since we arrived here but I dont need to go into that! I nearly drowned a few days ago, I went for a late afternoon session while it was still quiet and took the beating of my life.
It began when I had a wave and began paddling out the back again when a set loomed on the horizon. Sometimes the sets catch you out and you cant see them coming! Anyway I just made it under the first wave then I duck dived the second and got smashed all over the place. Board ripped out of my grasp. I came to the surface out of breath then I bailed on the 3rd wave which meant my board then dragged me under. Also to make matters worse, at the moment there is a big gully on the inside that is quite deep so in the circumstances I couldnt push off the bottom to break the surface quick enough! I made it to the surface just in time to get a miniscule breath of air before the 4th broke on my head. I tried to relax but it was hard getting to the surface again. I came to the surface after the 4th and had to go straight under for the 5th which by this point I was fucked! I then managed to hold onto my board whilst the set had passed. From this point onwards I needed a break and was on the sidelines for at least 10 minutes.
Eventually after all the heroics I managed to stay out of real harm the rest of the session.
Its by far the heaviest beachbreak I have surfed, its also the best and most rewarding wave I have probably ever surf!
But as most know the sea usually wins the battle.....
Other than that its been one of the most enjoyable stops on our travels!


Sunday, 6 March 2011

More to come.

video
Thought I would post another video. I tried posting a video a few weeks back but the connection was way too slow. I'm currently sat in a sweaty room in Mexico. Thinking about getting barrells next week as I keep mentioning! We're heading to Puerto Escondido. I'm getting excited to the point that I have huge butterflies in my stomach. Stay tuned for more updates on our Latin American adventure!

Saturday, 5 March 2011

Culture.

It's been a busy few weeks travelling from country to country. I haven't even had the chance to write a post.
After El Salvador we headed through Guatemala, Belize and now we have reached our final country throughout latin America. Mexico! Its been such a blur and the thought of flying home is gradually creeping up on us both.
We have done some great exploring the last few weeks and believe it or not I have been a right tourist! Flashing my camera and all that nonsense. I'm sure looking back on it all we will both think is......Wow! What a cool trip we did.
I'm starting to get even more excited now though. Reason being....we're heading to Puerto Escondido in just over a week. That means I need to get my barrell clogs on. I'm frothing!
Anyways we have 5, 1/2 weeks remaining in paradise locations. So stay tuned for some more tourist crap.

Laters.....




Coffee Lover!

Beautiful Colours in Belize

Can you tell? We looked buggered after walking to this
spectacular viewing point in Central Guatemala.

The Antigua Mcdonald's restaurant is the finest I've eaten in.....I'm serious!
(our aim has been to have a Mcdonalds in every country we visit)

Pacaya Volcano, nr Antigua still chuffs sulpher every now and then!