Wow......What a weekend that was. In terms of clean descent sized swell. I cant remember the last time we had a swell that perfect to be honest! Saturday was epic in North Devon. In terms of power and quality, it was up there with the finest.
Throughout the weekend I was able to indulge in some barrel riding and rather close shave near board snapping, which by the way I don't know how I got away with!
I decided to get up fairly early on Saturday morning so I could get a quick session before I and the boys started work. As I arrived around the point it looked pretty amazing, although a little bit of a closeout as the tide was high but ebbing (dropping) and there were large tides this weekend as well. I am working on Croyde beach this month, life guarding at the weekends throughout October. When we started patrolling I was really beginning to over froth watching the waves, which worked as a disadvantage to me, people who surf with me and know me well, when I get too excited I end up surfing worse than when I'm completely relaxed!
For my second surf of the day I was doing a good job of dodging some descent kegs! After about half an hour I started to get the ball rolling and got a couple of bombs that were peaking up way out the back. The bombs consisted of a placid drop in, followed by a build up of speed, set my line and walla.....a nice North Devon Coloured pit! As the tide reached towards low it started to get a little fat as the swell was breaking way out and just rolling all the way through. Until a good hour after the push it started to get sexy again!
The prediction turned out to be accurate as well. As they did forecast the swell to drop off slowly Saturday afternoon onwards.
By that evening it was nearly half the size of the waves I surfed early in the morning, but I couldn't complain at all, as even Sunday afternoon on the pushing tide was awesome. Not in terms of barrels but for fun high performance waves with lush warm sunshine.
Now I'm up to nothing during this week other than sorting out a few bits and bobs for my and Janine's trip it has gone flat as a witches bosom!
The photos above were taken at eleven o'clock on saturday morning just as I was suiting up......I wish I could do it all over again that day, i.e be off all weekend and go surf a few more of the spots that I prefer a bit further south! Yewwwww
Throughout the weekend I was able to indulge in some barrel riding and rather close shave near board snapping, which by the way I don't know how I got away with!
I decided to get up fairly early on Saturday morning so I could get a quick session before I and the boys started work. As I arrived around the point it looked pretty amazing, although a little bit of a closeout as the tide was high but ebbing (dropping) and there were large tides this weekend as well. I am working on Croyde beach this month, life guarding at the weekends throughout October. When we started patrolling I was really beginning to over froth watching the waves, which worked as a disadvantage to me, people who surf with me and know me well, when I get too excited I end up surfing worse than when I'm completely relaxed!
For my second surf of the day I was doing a good job of dodging some descent kegs! After about half an hour I started to get the ball rolling and got a couple of bombs that were peaking up way out the back. The bombs consisted of a placid drop in, followed by a build up of speed, set my line and walla.....a nice North Devon Coloured pit! As the tide reached towards low it started to get a little fat as the swell was breaking way out and just rolling all the way through. Until a good hour after the push it started to get sexy again!
The prediction turned out to be accurate as well. As they did forecast the swell to drop off slowly Saturday afternoon onwards.
By that evening it was nearly half the size of the waves I surfed early in the morning, but I couldn't complain at all, as even Sunday afternoon on the pushing tide was awesome. Not in terms of barrels but for fun high performance waves with lush warm sunshine.
Now I'm up to nothing during this week other than sorting out a few bits and bobs for my and Janine's trip it has gone flat as a witches bosom!
The photos above were taken at eleven o'clock on saturday morning just as I was suiting up......I wish I could do it all over again that day, i.e be off all weekend and go surf a few more of the spots that I prefer a bit further south! Yewwwww
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